Kick off at coffee royalty Seven Seeds – and look out for their cupping (tasting) sessions. Wind your way to cosy Kaprica, where artisan pizza is the star. Stroll up Italian-restaurant-lined Lygon Street to stop in (or up) at Johnny's Green Room, a rooftop bonanza above revamped King & Godfree, and on to Tiamo, a timbered old-timey den for classic pasta. Browse the cookbooks at Readings, named best bookstore in the world, then cross the road to bustling pastry palace Brunetti Classico.

Cross back again to worship cheeses at Milk the Cow, then choose between Heartattack and Vine – for Venetian snacks and wine – and Jimmy Watson's Wine Bar, a storied, sprawling venue with hidden nooks. Turn right onto Elgin Street and then head up pretty Rathdowne Street to the Carlton North village where Gerald's Bar offers a warm, wine-fuelled welcome. 3.5 km