Kick off at coffee kings Seven Seeds - every Tuesday at 9am there's a cupping (tasting) session. It's only a few steps to upbeat Thai hangout Middle Fish where the creative menu includes 'Thai-Bourne' fusion. Wind your way to cosy Kaprica, where artisan pizza is the star. Stroll up Lygon Street, lined with Italian restaurants, to Tiamo, a timbered old-timey den for classic pasta. Browse the cookbooks at Readings, named best bookstore in the world, then cross the road to bustling pastry palace Brunetti. Cross back again to worship cheeses at Milk the Cow, then choose between Heartattack and Vine (Venetian snacks and wine) and Jimmy Watson's Wine Bar, a storied, sprawling venue with hidden nooks. Turn right onto Elgin Street and then head up pretty Rathdowne Street to the Carlton North village where Gerald's Bar offers a warm, wine-fuelled welcome. 3km