The fundamentals of Port Phillip Estate have settled nicely. The imposing, sleek dining room with distant ocean views never fails to impress, and a well-priced list shows off the estate’s Kooyong and Port Phillip Estate labels. The food of chef Simon West has gone from strength to strength, following its clientele’s wishes by jettisoning the small plates approach for a more conventional carte, but keeping a happy marriage of flavour and presentation. His refined technique elevates the humble chicken (rolled into a galantine with foie gras and fig salad) to unexpected heights; picked spanner crab on toasted rye plays off the popping freshness of cucumber and salmon roe. From perfectly pan-fried snapper fillet swimming in a soulful saffron broth with mussels and peas to a velvety frozen nougat raspberry parfait, it’s an assured display. A shortage of top-notch floor staff continues to detract a little, but it’s a minor quibble. Truly one of the peninsula’s best dining experiences.

Open Wed–Sun noon–3pm; Fri–Sat 6pm–late
Typical prices E $23 M $39 D $18
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Estate labels, exceptional Old World list, plus local single-estate pinot noir
Owner Giorgio Gjergja
Chef Simon West
Seats 80; outdoor seating; private room; bar

And … Splurge and stay the night.