Blood-red walls are a courageous choice for a dining room, but once ensconced in the Town Hall's cosy confines, your attention will be irresistibly drawn to the rustic Italian dishes appearing from Harry Lilai's kitchen. Chorizo and grapes sounds simple enough, but this sausage is smoky, spicy and oozes tasty oils cut by the sweetness of plump, flawless grapes. A rabbit crostini features a perfect piece of trimmed meat, with a touch of leek for contrast, while crumbed taleggio with spicy pear chutney is wickedly good. Small plates include wild figs with Parma prosciutto or buffalo mozzarella with tomatoes, basil and olives, while mains enter the territory of Italian standards – risotto (perhaps lush gorgonzola), house-made pasta (gorgeously simple gnocchi with balsamic, butter and parmesan), veal (classic ossobuco), beef and fish – but all are quality, and borne to your table under the reassuring presence of Luca Montebelli. Prices are more than reasonable, and desserts, like textbook tiramisu, a delight.

Open Tues–Sat noon–3pm, 6–10pm; Sun 11.30am–3pm
Typical prices E $15 M $28 D $13
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine A deep, interesting list strong on Italian and French but with fine Australian and NZ wines, too
Owners Luca Montebelli, Harry & Michelle Lilai
Chef Harry Lilai
Seats 70; private room; bar

And … Try the $35 lunch offer Tuesday to Saturday.