In some ways, great seafood and casino restaurants are a good fit. Who better to eat royal caviar and oysters than high rollers? The Atlantic delivers on much of its promise: the masculine, dark-hued room is comfortable and dramatic (though most diners can't see the open kitchen), the produce is top-notch, and some dishes from chef Donovan Cooke are outstanding. The elegant seafood cocktail, updated with quail eggs and rockmelon, reminds why the dish is a classic. Sauteed cuttlefish strips are twirled into melting 'linguini'. Service occasionally lacks focus, and the simple, almost austere presentation of market-driven fish dishes – like steamed flathead or battered whiting – will appeal to some but may not feel special-occasion enough for others, especially when this huge, high-priced 300-seat restaurant is noisy. But desserts deserve the limelight: spiced custard with crushed praline offers one more reason to like the Atlantic.

Open Daily noon–3pm, 6–11pm
Typical prices E $24 M $45 D $19
Cards DC AE MC V
Wine Smart, food-appropriate list with plenty of big names
Owners Con Andronis, Hatem Saleh, Tony Schiavello & Donovan Cooke
Chef Donovan Cooke
Seats 240; outdoor seating; private room; bar

And … The Den downstairs bar does some of the best cocktails in town.