The essence of Tempura Hajime is understated elegance, evident the moment you enter via the unassuming wooden door until the waiters and chef bid you farewell. This  12-seats-only den of quality tempura and carefully orchestrated flavour is a constant beacon for consistency and uncompromising composure from Shigeo Yoshihara. At dinner, choose one of two set menus and let chef weave his magic as you sit at the pine countertop in an unadorned, white room giving you no choice but to focus on the feast ahead. After a delicate sashimi starter (say, John Dory, kingfish and ocean trout) comes tempura. Each piece retains the subtle crunch of a fine just-cooked batter, highlighting the ingredient within: the pop of sweetcorn, the softness of sweet potato, the muted salty tones of scallop filled with sea urchin. Lightly seared sushi is a satisfying savoury fullstop. Yoghurt jelly with moscato juice is a lovely sweet touch but almost superfluous to such a textural savoury adventure.

Open Tues–Fri noon–2.30pm; Tues–Sat 6pm–late
Typical prices Lunches $18-$34; dinner set menus $75 (tempura), $85 or $92 (7 or 10 pieces tempura and sushi
Cards AE MC V
Wine A short list of mostly commercial Australian wines but a strong sake and shochu selection
Owner & chef Shigeo Yoshihara
Seats 12; bar

And … Book ahead to secure one of the 12 seats.