As any celeb will tell you, the passing of years isn't always kind, especially on Fitzroy Street. But Sapore is one local A-lister whose star continues to shine brightly. Under a soaring ceiling twinkling with lights, waitstaff move on silent feet to minister to diners tucked in at elegantly set blondwood tables. Merging classic Italian tastes with modern food styling, a summery entree salad is the perfect start: al dente asparagus, green and white beans, tumbled on a sweet and creamy ricotta bed bearing the toasty overtones of warm pinenuts. The 12-hour slow-cooked pork is a piggy kapow of fork-tender meat and faultless crackling (cooked separately so it's crunchy) cut through with a salad of bitey witlof. Similarly crisp-skinned roasted blue-eye finds ideal enhancement in its surrounding sweet prawn, pea and tomato velouté. Honeycomb-topped limoncello semifreddo with Manuka honey sabayon is a classy sugar-bomb of a dessert and a stellar full-stop.

Open Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Sat noon–4pm; Mon–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri–Sat 6–11pm; Sun noon–10pm
Typical prices E $18 M $34 D $14
Cards DC AE MC V
Wine Lively list strong on Italian varietals; a dozen or so by the glass; BYO Sun night (corkage $10 a bottle)
Owner Luisa Lucchesi
Chefs Simon Moss & Jeff Simpson
Seats 120; outdoor seating; private room

And … Sapore is Italian for 'flavour'.