Matteo's is the dapper, slightly eccentric aristocrat of Melbourne fine dining. A deluxe interior with purple chairs, chandeliers and gilt mirrors promises indulgence and refinement, but the menu shirks the safe European fare one might expect in such an elegant environment, opting for more flamboyant Asian fusion. That prosaic Australian–Chinese dish, lemon chicken, is given a different take at Matteo's, the breast meat fried Japanese kara-age style and served on a bed of coconut rice coated in lemongrass sauce. The interpretation may not be for everybody, but it's inspired. Equally memorable are Balmain bug tails, king prawns and scallops sauteed in yakitori sauce, coated with toasted sesame seeds, beneath knockout 'coleslaw' of shredded radicchio, Chinese broccoli, wong bok, daikon, crispy rice noodles, jellyfish and taro chips. Dessert is more conventional, perhaps a decadent oozy-centred chocolate fondant with a scoop of luscious pistachio icecream. Service is warm and polished.

Open Daily 6–10.30pm; Sun–Fri noon–3pm
Typical prices E $22 M $42 D $18
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Mid- to high-end, largely Australian, with some cult favourites; a good smattering of European wines
Owners Matteo & Franca Pignatelli
Chef Brendan McQueen
Seats 85; private room

And … Sunday lunch banquets offer weekly-changing dishes laid out to share ($79).