A swoop of staff greet you at the top of Grossi's legendary curved stairs, heralding your arrival with a studied chorus of 'buonasera!'­ – it's the prelude to an occasion of high theatre. With its famed Florentine-style murals and shimmering chandeliers, Grossi is like a stage set, evoking a Tuscan palazzo. Celebrity chef and owner Guy Grossi sticks to his popular script of classic Italian. Consistently impressive as entree is the swooningly good black rice risotto – dark and velvety, topped with a Moreton Bay bug, and a salty dollop of parmesan sabayon. For mains, the Glenloth pigeon – a roasted breast and a large raviolo filled with leg meat – is delicately balanced, with a sauce that seamlessly merges marsala, cardamom and liquorice powder. Though John Dory with green olives might seem too subtle, desserts – such as the Valrhona chocolate souffle – are show-stoppers. It's a pleasingly conservative and fine performance – though, like premium seats at the opera, something this special comes at a price.

Open Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Sat 6–10pm
Typical prices E $39 M $55 D $26; degustation $195
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine A rich libretto of select Old and New World wines; 18 by the glass
Owners Grossi & Rodriguez families
Chefs Guy Grossi & Chris Rodriguez
Seats 120; private room

And … Handbags are given their own little stools.