15/20  Best New Restaurant

Andrew McConnell's food defies pigeonholing, and Golden Fields defies it more than his other restaurants. The official line is that Golden Fields reflects his time working in Shanghai and Hong Kong, but it also bears more than a passing resemblance to his city digs Cumulus Inc, from the chic monochrome and white design and open kitchen to the casual eating-house personality, the no-bookings policy and the grab-bag of culinary influences that rarely strikes a discordant note. The menu's mostly Asian inflections twist and turn: octopus, mussels and salted cucumber smoulder with Sichuan chilli; Japanese sensibilities rule with steamed snapper, clams and pickled wasabi leaf in a soulful white miso broth; and to finish, a ragged sponge of black sesame strikes a savoury note with yoghurt cream and lime sorbet. But then there's the crowd-pleasing hot buttered lobster roll, and a wine list that embraces the eclecticism. With a loyal coterie of staff, Golden Fields is one helluva newcomer.

Open Tues–Thurs noon–midnight; Fri–Sun 8am–midnight; no bookings, except for groups of eight to 14
Typical prices E $14 M $32 D $10
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine A textured list with a bias for France and local heroes; riesling and pinot noir appropriately rule the roost
Owner Andrew McConnell
Chefs Andrew McConnell & Arnie Josue
Seats 80; outdoor seating; bar

And … Golden Fields also does weekend breakfasts.