Vegetables aren't just an afterthought or side dish at this cosy, moodily lit terrace house dining room: they're the headliners. Owner/chef Nicolas Poelaert loves them with a passion, regularly combing the markets, using hand-picked local growers, maintaining his own garden and foraging for wild plants. His signature dish, meli melo, is a joyous, Michel Bras-inspired mix of seasonal baby vegetables, poached then tossed in butter and prettily arranged with flowers, herbs, purees and dehydrated 'dusts'. Just as spectacular is Warrnambool lamb in a fine tube of beetroot, pinkly cooked and dusted with more beetroot and little heirloom sliced beets. Some dishes, such as John Dory with cauliflower, banana capsicum, citrus and golden raisins, or confit chicken breast in a creamy cloud of organic milk, don't quite come together as confidently, with a few too many flourishes. They might be served with a smile, or with hauteur. Either way, berries and cherries work a treat with honey custard and 'broken glass' of spun sugar.

Open Wed–Sun 6.30–10pm; Fri–Sun noon–3.00pm
Typical prices E $21 M $40 D $20
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Quirky, intriguing list of domestic and French wines
Owners Nicolas & Tara Poelaert
Chef Nicolas Poelaert
Seats 50; private rooms; chef's table

And … Don't miss the famed cheesy aligot on the side.