16/20  Diners' Choice Award

There's the famous comic at the bar talking to the famous designer who's dining later with the famous producer – Cutler & Co is that kind of place. With bare beams and brick walls, the dining room suggests an art-space. Andrew McConnell refuses to play favourites with his food, hopping confidently between his Asian experience and classical training – kingfish may be cured, all texture and bounce, playing off the zinging acidity from pickled cucumber. Poached chicken with foie gras parfait, quinoa and prune puree nods to several trends while remaining very much a McConnell dish; there's the culture-bending originality of a potato broth nestling seared scallops with fungus and soy curd, or the assured tradition of roast suckling pig with morcilla and parsnip. Service is fast and sweet. A powerful dessert of violet icecream with a sour cherry and clove meringue, and just enough chocolate ganache to make it decadent, sums up the experience: funky, fun but serious about the food.

Open Tues–Sun 6–11pm; Fri & Sun noon–2.30pm
Typical prices E $24 M $43 D $18
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Extensive collection strong on Europeans
Owners Andrew McConnell, Roger Fowler, Pascale Gomes-McNabb & Frank van Haandel
Chefs Andrew McConnell & John Paul Twomey
Seats 100; private room; bar

And … The bar is a destination in itself.