'That's an awesome dish!' declares a waiter with an enthusiasm apparently common to Coda's staff, whose high energy leaves you thinking, 'We'll have what they're having!' The atmosphere defies diners not to relax and enjoy big-flavoured, share-friendly food that leaps joyfully from continent to continent with unbuttoned but spot-on service. 'Awesome' is a special of tempura Moreton Bay bugs to dip in sweet garlic soy sauce then Sichuan pepper-and-salt, paired with punchy kimchi-style pickled leek and wombok. Betel leaf-wrapped minced prawn is crisped in a sheer tapioca batter and is finger-licking good, as is blackened quail with a little Asian salad. Sizzling, soy-salty kingfish is almost plain-Jane beside many menu counterparts, but golden potato-gem-sized zucchini fritters with dollops of satiny buffalo mozzarella are right on song. The room is sleek, dark, subterranean, industrial chic and sexy, and desserts like chocolatey icecream sandwich or coconut panna cotta will leave you oohing and aahing too.

Open Daily noon–3pm, 6–10pm
Typical prices E $20 M $38 D $15
Cards AE MC V
Wine Terrific service guides you through a lively list
Owners Adam D'Sylva, Mykal Bartholomew & Kate Calder
Chef Adam D'Sylva & Julie Thai
Seats 40; bar

And … Can't get in? Try a 6pm sitting, or Coda's 40-seat bar, open from noon to 10pm.