For more than a dozen years, Circa has been at the forefront of Melbourne dining with food that's run the gamut from complex to comforting, architectural to artisan. The current Circa is sophisticated yet informal, with its casually classy dining room, confident service, assured food and cooking that's wide-eyed with glee at just how yummy the world can be. Jake Nicolson's pantry of ideas is bountiful. You might come upon subtle, succulent sake-and-mirin-marinated eel, a textured beef rump with braised oysters and red cabbage 'jam' or a roast chicken dish for two, in which simple presentation makes a secret of the meticulous process that made it so golden, juicy and flavoursome. Nicolson's fervour for whole beast cookery and outstanding produce, much of it homegrown, is reminiscent of his 'kitchen mother' Alla Wolf-Tasker. She must be delighted with his progress, but all of us can benefit from his cooking: happily bowerbird, always striving, wholly enjoyable.

Open Daily 7–11am, 6–10pm; Fri noon–3pm; Sun 12.30–3pm
Typical prices E $25 M $38 D $16
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Among the city's best wine lists; BYO Mon & Tues (corkage $30 a bottle)
Owners John & Lisa van Haandel
Chef Jake Nicolson
Seats 80; private room; bar

And ... Circa goes all day, from classy breakfasts to late-night drinks at the swish bar.