The tables are bunched, the noise levels high, the lighting is low and they don't take dinner bookings. After nearly two decades, this still-sexy St Kilda pin-up remains worth a wait. The back bar brims with diners anticipating Virginia Redmond's signatures – perhaps a souffle of blue swimmer crab in a creamy champagne velouté or an uncomplicated piece of expertly charred eye fillet. Many might opt for high-rotation chalkboard specials – perhaps a carpaccio of wafer-thin snapper and yabby subtly spiked with tangerine oil; or simply roasted blue-eye enlivened by a chunky leek fondue and smoked trout farce in crisp tempura. Another constant is slick, sprightly service, which knows how to make you feel like a St Kilda local, even if you're not. The restaurant has had a freshen-up but retains the casual feel. For dessert, it's hard to pass up the passionfruit and saffron bombe Alaska – it's a blast.

Open Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10pm; no bookings at dinner
Typical prices E $16 M $39 D $15
Cards AE MC V
Wine Plenty of affordable choice from a varied list of about 135 Australasian and 85 European wines; 17 half bottles, 19 by the glass
Owners Barbara Dight, Lisa Carrodus & Virginia Redmond
Chef Virginia Redmond
Seats 45; outdoor seating; bar

And … Be in by 6pm if you want to avoid waiting for a table.