This smart country kitchen has hospitality at its heart, and co-owner, chef and local farmer Pietro Porcu as its frontman. The rustic, white weatherboard cottage’s dining rooms are flooded with natural light by day, and in winter the fireside tables are highly sought. You can order from the day’s chalked offerings, which waiters flawlessly recite, but most settle for the chef’s menu, a leisurely, three-hour affair. Staggered antipasto might be garlicky green beans; an octopus salad, dressed in locally made olive oil, the tentacles pink and perfect; baked, cheesy eggplant; or house-smoked salmon carpaccio. The bouillabaisse, shared at the table, is a giant bowl loaded with a rotating roster of char-grilled cuttlefish, prawns, scallops, snapper and blue swimmer crab - it’s served with warm house-baked bread for dipping into the herby, winey sauce. Next? Ricotta cannoli, one end with candied citron, the other end chocolate, or maybe tiramisu. Small niggles - unfilled water glasses, a duck breast a touch overdone - don’t detract from a fantastic experience from a restaurant in its prime.

Open Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–4pm
Typical prices E $26 M $39 D $16; chef’s menu $89
Cards DC AE MC V Eftpos
Wine Strong on Italians with local, organic offerings
Owners Van Nguyen, Pietro Porcu & Bianca Stephenson
Chefs Pietro Porcu & Luca Flammia
Seats 80; private room

And … Stylish converted church buildings across the road provide a lovely reason to sleep over.