Regional Restaurant of the Year

Restaurants always exist in time and place, but the basic physics rarely feels as resonant as here. Husband-and-wife team Astrid and Aaron Turner create an experience that’s grounded and ethereal all at once, deeply rooted in the region, widely wandering and wondering. First, don’t be in a hurry. Second, express likes, dislikes and curiosity at the list of ingredients that serves as a menu (pine needle, pork, samphire, milk). Third, fourth and forever, roll with the experience, soothed by farmland views, keen and crisp service, and food that’s expressive and questing. You might eat sweet sashimi prawn with tingly rhubarb granita, melting suckling pig in a rockmelon corral, and featherlight grated cheese over lychees and wild rice. Aaron Turner is an exciting chef: his exploration of flavours, textures, techniques and the narrative that’s possible on a plate is entirely winning. That he’s pursuing big dreams in a modest country setting is an encouraging portent about the direction of Australian dining.

Open Thurs–Sun noon–3pm; Fri–Sat 6.30pm–late (extended hours in summer)
Typical prices Set menus lunch $35, $60, $95 (2, 4, 7 courses); dinner $60, $95, $120 (4, 7, 9 courses)
Cards AE MC V Eftpos
Wine A concise list that favours local wines
Owners Aaron & Astrid Turner
Chef Aaron Turner
Seats 40; outdoor seating

And … The waiters often show-and-tell the produce you’re about to eat.