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Who are we to argue with uber-boulanger Gontran Cherrier, who declares, "Let them eat croissants"? When the "them" is we Melburnians and the croissants are the flaky pastries of perfection, it's an order we can cheerfully follow. From Montmartre to Smith Street via Tokyo and Seoul, Melbourne's Gontran Cherrier is technically the latest in the fourth-generation baker's global chain of artisanal boulangeries. A smart smattering of local touches (Vegemite, lemon myrtle) and an in-house café make our outpost distinctly Melbourne, and a very welcome addition.