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The most Melbourne thing to do would be to coin a phrase for the kind of place encapsulated by Bedford Street. It's open early for breakfast, still there at lunch, serves up dinner at a godly hour and is still slingin' cocktails at midnight. What's more, it's all done with more aplomb than you'd expect from a place that did just one of these things well. No surprise, to discover the team behind Brunswick's Wide Open Road is responsible. While the menu might sound a bit Route 66 – all bacons and maples and bourbon and fried chicken – it's so much more.